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Hmm.
Sound familiar? Where have we heard that phrase before? Ah, yes, a
song by the Beatles. This time of year, as you drive around the countryside,
you may see strawberry fields that seem to go on forever. Maybe you
are someone who frequents the "U-Pick" fields that seem
to be popping up throughout the county. Maybe you have been reading
about the wonderful nutritious-cancer fighting qualities that strawberries
have. Are you someone who has thought, "I could start my own
strawberry bed!" If you are that person, then these next few
articles are for you because we will investigate the needs to begin
a strawberry bed, the care and maintenance of a strawberry bed and
look at some of the varieties that are available.
First, where will you grow your strawberries? Now is the time to "scope
out" an area. Whether you want to grow the June-bearing or ever-bearing
varieties, you will need to follow some universal guidelines. Strawberries
grow best in a sunny area. The soil should be slightly acidic (pH
of 6.0-6.5) and should have that nice balance of holding enough water
to promote growth yet drain well. If your land seems to be waterlogged,
find a place where you can build a raised bed with about 2 to 3 inches
of light loamy soil. Be aware that strawberries should not grow in
the same place for more than 3 to 4 years. Many people find that having
a place in the vegetable garden works well, allowing the strawberries
to remain in the same spot for a few years, and moving them as needed.
As early as July and as late as fall, you can begin to prepare the
area where next year's bed will be placed. When you have cleared the
area of grass, weeds and other perennials, dig in compost or manure,
and rake off any surplus. Extra organic material may attract slugs,
snails and millipedes. You should not grow strawberries where other
strawberries, tomatoes, chili peppers or eggplants have been growing
the last 3 years. Strawberries are susceptible to verticillium wilt,
and these other plants are too. If these other plants leave fungal
remnants behind, the strawberries could become infected.
Do you want June bearing plants, ever-bearing plants, or a mixture
of the two? As the name suggests, the June bearing varieties produce
fruit in late spring or early summer. They put out runners (which
are used for propagation) in the summer, and are dormant in the winter.
Ever- bearing varieties are not quite accurately named because they
really only produce twice throughout the year - once in the spring
and again in the fall.
Knowing how much fruit to harvest will help determine how many plants
to order. Depending on the variety, you can expect to harvest about
a quart of strawberries from each plant but not the first year. It
is recommended to pinch off the flowers the first year directing plant
energy toward plant development.
There are many strawberry varieties from which to choose. A little
research with a few catalogs will determine which ones to select.
Since strawberries are easily attacked by viruses and fungi, you will
want cultivars that are disease resistant and virus free. Choose a
variety that will suit your needs. Are you looking for freeze-ability
or fresh fruit use? How about size and sweetness? Knowing how you
plan to use your fruit will also help determine how many to plant
and how much growing space you will need. When you look for the different
varieties, be sure to use a resource that will describe varieties
that are suitable for our climate.
Place plants about 2 ½ to 3 feet apart into the bed that you
prepared in the fall. All of the roots need to be covered, but do
not plant too deeply. See where the root system and stem system meet.
This is the crown. Do not cover the crown but keep the soil level
at that junction. The plants should be watered and cultivated regularly
(weekly) to keep weeds eliminated and to loosen the soil so runners
can penetrate the soil.
When plants begin to produce berries, many people put down a straw
mulch to keep the berries clean and dry while preserving soil moisture.
This mulch should not be applied earlier because the heat from the
ground will help the berries develop. If winter mulch was applied
to help protect the plants from cold, that mulch should have been
removed as soon as the spring weather began to warm the soil. The
spring mulch is applied when berries become heavy. Once the berries
start to ripen, pick them daily. Pick in the morning when the berries
are still cool. Remove the stalks, not just the berries. The fruit
is tender and bruises easily.
After the crop is harvested, the plants can be renovated. Remove any
straw mulch and use a mower with a high setting to cut off the old
leaves at least 1 inch (up to 3 inches is recommended) above the crown.
. It is important to do this step immediately after harvest to encourage
new growth and before new runners are developed. Removing the foliage
is a good horticultural practice because it removes any pests and
diseases. The June-bearing varieties reproduce via runners. Thinning
these runners to 4 or 5 per parent plant, and encouraging them to
root (for future transplanting) is a good practice for future crops.
Ever-bearing varieties usually do not produce runners. In fact, it
is recommended to replace these plants regularly since the quality
of fruit they produce lessens every year. Cultivation practice for
ever-bearing plants is similar to June bearing varieties. There are
major differences when the harvests occur. For ever-bearing plants
remove spring flowers the first year only and let the plants produce
fruit in late summer or fall. After the first fall harvest, clean
up the beds and cover with straw for the winter. After next spring's
harvest, apply a balanced fertilizer to assist the fall crop. After
the second fall's harvest, plants should be removed with new plants
set out the following spring. Repeat the process every third year.
Propagation of ever-bearing plants should be done in late August or
early September. Dig up a mature plant and carefully break off the
new crowns or buds leaving as many roots as possible to each piece.
Transfer them immediately to a new bed already prepared. Be careful
not to plant the crowns too deeply or they will rot.
Maintaining a strawberry bed involves more than just planting, weeding,
harvesting and renovating. Keeping a close eye for pests and diseases
is an important part of strawberry care. Next week we will investigate
these potential problems and how to avoid them.
In the meantime, take a look at the area where you think you want
to grow strawberries, and start planning. Enjoy the strawberries that
are currently available. Use them in shortcake or add to yogurt and
shakes. Make jam and add some to your rhubarb recipes! Strawberries
are good! And they are good for you. If you have any questions about
strawberries or any other gardening questions, please call the Cooperative
Extension Office at (315)-536-5123 and leave a message for the Master
Gardeners. Be sure to leave your name, phone number and a time to
return your call. Happy gardening.
Cornell
Cooperative Extension Yates Association
Last
updated: 6/27/01
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