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May 29,
2002
Undoubtedly
one of the most difficult challenges for the home gardener is determining
what to plant in the varying degrees of shade that may be encountered
around the garden. While the choices among sun-loving plants is extensive
those for shade are often limited and unexciting. With this article
we hope to offer gardeners suggestions for dealing with their shady
dilemma in the climatic conditions here in Yates County (Zone 5, with
some limited microclimate areas of Zone 4 or Zone 6).
First, it is important to define what shade is exactly and describe
the varying degrees to which it exists. We'll start with full sun
as our reference point:
Full sun is described as receiving at least 6 hours of direct
sunlight per day.
Part shade is described as receiving at least 3 hours of direct
sunlight per day.
Full shade is described as receiving less than 2 hours of direct
sunlight per day. Within full shade there are further degrees of shading
to be considered:
Dappled shade may be a relatively bright area where, although
it still receives minimal direct sunlight, may get some intermittently.
These conditions often exist under trees, behind other foliage, or
under a cover of lath or overhead lattice.
Open shade is presented on the northern side of a structure, such
as a building or wall, where there may be no direct sunlight but lots
of light is present as reflected light off of the structure. This
type of shade extends out as far as the shadow of the structure.
Medium shade describes a condition where the area receives less
than one hour per day of filtered sunlight or no sunlight at all;
it is an area that could not be considered to be very bright.
Dense shade exists in areas where very dense tree canopies, tall walls,
and buildings or combinations of these obscure all direct sunlight
from ever reaching the ground; there is minimal reflected light.
Prior to planting your shade site you must evaluate your proj ect
as you would before gardening in any site.
1. What is the soil type and pH and will you need to amend the soil
to achieve your goals?
2. Are there objects or geographical features which will store or
reflect heat and warm the area; sometimes this excessive heat production
will take its toll on plants that prefer cool spots. These features
can sometimes create a microclimate ilia limited area. Will these
features limit growth of roots?
3. How much sun is present at different times of the year? Are there
excessive winds? Is there enough air circulation to prevent fungal
diseases? Are there any plants nearby that release toxins through
their roots systems (such as black walnuts) that would stunt or kill
off non-compatible plants?
4. Is the site plagued with excessive water or dryness? If you need
to drain wet sites do you have a plan? If you need to irrigate, do
you have a handy water source, and what will be the financial cost
of doing so?
5. How much time and money are you willing to commit to the project,
not just at the outset but also during the maintenance of the area?
6. How will the area be used? Will there be pedestrian traffic, pets,
or wildlife? Is it to be a high-maintenance, formal planting or perhaps
will it be left to naturalize with little or no mowing?
7. What sorts of problems will you need to attend to before beginning
your project, such as checking for the location of underground wires,
pipes, etc. Making a list is a good idea.
8. Do you really want plant material or would non-living materials
be a better choice? (i.e. stone, gravel, bricks, pavers, mulch, etc.)
Planning a shade garden requires a few other considerations:
1. If your site receives some sun is it in the afternoon? Many shade-loving
plants like cool conditions and cannot tolerate the strong afternoon
sun.
2. Are there structures or features that reflect or trap heat? Again,
cooler conditions are generally preferred.
3. If large trees are shading the area will they compete with the
planting for water? Will their roots make it too difficult to dig
and prepare the soil?
4. Is it an option to modify the shade area, such as by pruning to
decrease the density of the shade?
When you have compiled your answers to these considerations you are
then in the position to make some educated decisions what to plant.
But where do you start?
Develop your vision: Visit garden centers and nurseries; go on a garden
tour or visit public gardens and arboretums. Arm yourself with as
much knowledge as you can to create your vision.
Make your selections: Look in catalogs and books for a broad idea
of what is available for your growing conditions or consult with Cornell
Cooperative Extension; talk to knowledgeable nurserymen and horticultural
growers to see what is available in this area. In making your selection
be sure to consider the ultimate size of the plant at maturity so
that it is neither too big for the space or is too small to have the
impact you hope for.
After you have decided on what plants that you are going to work with
make a detailed plan for the site and prepare the soil. Then purchase
your plants according to the conditions present at your site; remember
that if planted in less than ideal situations a specimen may live
for a year or two but over time they will either fail to thrive or
even die. Select healthy specimens grown in conditions similar to
where they will end up (a specimen grown in a southern state may have
a more difficult and longer time of acclimation than one grown in
a similar Zone).
What follows is a short list of plants that are compatible with shade
areas in Zone 5. This is not an all-inclusive list but is intended
to give you a place to start in developing your goals. Again, before
selecting a plant species be sure that it's requirements are compatible
with conditions on your site. A more comprehensive and detailed list
is available from Cornell Cooperative Extension, or check with local
nurseries.
Plants compatible with shade areas in Zone 5
Perennials: astilbe, hosta, lily of the valley, primula, decentra,
ferns
Vines: bittersweet, wintercreeper, English ivy, Boston ivy,
Virginia creeper, climbing hydrangea
Ground covers: pachysandra, vinca, sweet woodruff, wild ginger,
creeping cotoneaster, bunchberry
Shrubs: snowberry, yew, arborvitae, viburnum, bog rosemary, common
bearberry, scotch heather cultivars, Oregon grape holly, bayberry
Trees: Shadbush, Japanese maple, bottlebrush buckeye, Eruopean
filbert (Harry Lauder walking stick), dogwoods
Cornell
Cooperative Extension Yates Association
Last updated: 5/21/02
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