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If you have qustions,
call the Master Gardener Hotline!
315-536-5123

or e-mail mgyates@cornell.edu

 

Master Gardener Program

 

 

 

 

The Master Gardener Program is a national program of trained volunteers who work in partnership with their county Cooperative Extension offices to extend gardening information to the local community. Over 1,500 volunteer Master Gardeners in New York State contribute educational services to meet the outreach mission of Cornell, influencing many thousands of consumers on horticultural issues.

Up to their elbows in dirt, Master Gardeners see soil as the base for germination of seeds destined to become beautiful plants, blooming in their maturity. So in turn Master Gardeners have cultivated their involvement in the community with hope of creating an ideal growing medium for Yates County youth.

Recently, the Master Gardeners sponsored a staff member from the Keuka Lake School to attend the Greener Beginnings conference at Cornell University. The conference focused on gardening activities for school children. This has led to a collaboration where Master Gardener volunteers work with teachers and students from the school in hands-on horticultural education. This continues a tradition of working with youth for the Master Gardeners. Other activities include an intergenerational holiday workshop, the maintenance of the Penn Yan mini-park with Penn Yan FFA, and the Dundee Interactive Gardening club.

Highlights

  • There are approximately 16 active volunteers in Yates County that are trained as Master Gardeners in a twelve-week intensive course and in return, provide 60 hours or more of horticulture community services.
  • Hundreds of home horticulture questions are researched and answered by Master Gardeners each year.
  • The Master Gardeners plan and host the Annual Yates County Yard N' Garden Day with attendance of more than 80 people.
  • The Master Gardeners maintain several community and school gardens such as the NAMI Garden (in conjunction with the clients at the Behavioral Health Center) and the garden at the Keuka Lake School.
  • Once per month Master Gardeners contribute a gardening or plant related article to the Extension Corner Column in the Chronicle Express.
  • The Master Gardeners host a plant sale at The Windmill in June to raise awareness about the program and generate income to support Master Gardener reference materials.

If you have a gardening question, you may email mgyates@cornell.edu or call Cornell Cooperative Extension of Yates County at 315-536-5123. During the summer, Master Gardeners are in the office Tuesday and Thursay mornings but you can call anytime and leave a message for them.

Do you love gardening and are looking for a way to share your interest with others? E-mail Peter Landre, ptl2@cornell.edu, to find out how you can become a certified Master Gardener!

 

 

Links

New Vineyard Site Evaluation Tool NEW!!!

 

Gardening Articles written by Yates County Master Gardeners

- Gardening Resources from Cornell
- Cornell University Integrated Pest Management
- Vegetable MD
- Compost page
- Cornell Plantations

- Wildlife Control
- USDA's Natural Resources Conservation Service
- NY Botanical Groups
- Weeds Gone Wild: Alien Plant Invaders of Natural Areas
- Weed US: Database of plants invading natural areas in the United States

 

Meg McGrath, Assoc. Professor in Plant Pathology sent the following message about tomatoes and potatoes affected by blight...

Are the unaffected parts of blighted tomatoes and potatoes safe to eat?
        
Yes the unaffected parts probably are safe to eat.  Parts with symptoms likely do not pose a health risk when consumed either, but they do not look appetizing and will have an off flavor.  However, no published scientific study on this specific issue was found to confirm this conclusion, therefore consumers need to make their own decision on food safety.  The conclusion that unaffected tissue is safe to consume is based on several points.  This pathogen does not produce a toxin that can make people sick, as a few plant pathogens can do.  Plant pathogens cannot infect people. No food safety issues have been found with other diseases that affect tomato fruit or potato tubers.  Late blight appears to be like other more common diseases, e.g. anthracnose on tomato fruit and pink rot of potato (which incidentally is caused by Phytophthora erythroseptica, a pathogen related to that causing late blight), in that these do not appear to affect plant tissue beyond the area of infection.  Many home gardeners likely often cut off diseased tissue rather than throw out the entire fruit or tuber having found the healthy appearing part of these to taste fine.  This has not been associated with any human health issues.  Diseases like late blight and anthracnose are not considered a health concern for commercial tomato processing.  Fruit are sorted to remove affected ones, but this is because of the impact on fruit quality.  For home canning, only disease-free, preferably vine-ripened, firm tomatoes are recommended in the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning because fungal pathogens may raise tissue pH and thereby allow growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.

If you have any questions, give us a call at 315-536-5123

 

Late blight on tomato and potato plants

1. What is it???

It is a disease of the potato and tomato plant.  It is the same disease that caused the Irish Potato Famine in the 1800’s.

2. What does it look like?

On tomatoes, the symptoms that appear on leaves, stems and fruit are very dramatic.  See photos.  Lesions can be nickel to quarter sized, lime green to gray to tan.  On the under sides of leaves can be white fuzzy spore growth.  It can kill a plant in a very short time.

3. What can I do?

Inspect your plants!!!  If they look healthy, you should apply a PREVENTIVE pesticide.  When purchasing a product, look for chlorothalonil as an active ingredient.  Copper applications can be used for organic gardeners, although it is not as effective.  Applications should be made every 5-7 days if cool, wet weather persists.  Follow the label directions.

4. What do I do if I think my plants have it?

Contact the Master Gardeners (315-536-5123) who can help to make a positive identification (there are other plant diseases out there now, and maybe you don’t have late blight.)  If you are sure your plants are affected, remove the plants and put them in a plastic bag for disposal.  DO NOT PUT THEM IN A COMPOST PILE!!! Your neighbors, as well as commercial growers, will appreciate your taking this action immediately.

for more detailed information and pictures click here

 

Web sites from the 2008 Land Ethics Symposium

Saving Places for Nature

  1.     Preserving Land in the Face of Development – Anne Hutchinson
  2.    Stewardship Planning for Natural Lands – Holly M. Harper
    Resource: www.natlands.org

Gardens Past, Present & Future: Sustainable Sites Initiative – John Peter Thompson
Resource: www.ipetrus.blogspot.com   www.sustainablesites.org

One Drop at a Time: New Paradigms for Home Gardens – Marcus de la fleur
Resource: www.delafleur.com/

Queens Botanical Garden’s Sustainable Landscapes and Building Project – Jennifer Ward Souder
Resource: www.queensbotanical.org/103498/sustainable

Stormwater, Stream Restoration & Native Plants:  The Ecological Context  & Designer’s Challenge  – John  W. Munro
Resource: Fall Seminars at www.eaglehill.us


A Pollution Fighting Rain Garden
Annette Toaspern, Master Gardener
Cornell Cooperative Extension

Rain gardens are unique landscape areas of wildflowers and natural vegetation designed to filter runoff after heavy downpours.  They can be a valuable tool to help reduce flooding and soil erosion from storm water runoff.  There is a growing interest in rain gardens because they are a simple way for people to contribute to cleaner water in their community.  Rain gardens also add beauty and value to a home landscape while benefiting water quality overall. The concept of a rain garden began in the 1990’s in the state of Maryland and is now one of the fastest growing areas of interest for home landscaping.

The purpose of a rain garden is to contain and “treat” storm runoff water using a garden.  Instead of water running quickly off your property after a storm, water is diverted to the rain garden and filtered slowly by the soil and absorbed by the plants in the garden. The infiltration time is short enough to eliminate mosquito problems associated with standing water.  A rain garden should be at least 10 feet away from your foundation and in a well drained area. Rainwater is directed from roof downspouts and/or paved surfaces to the garden via a swale or drainage tile.

rain garden

A rain garden is built by digging into a gentle slope, making the bottom level and using the excavated soil to create a berm on the downhill end to retain the water (see figure above).  Any grass removed can be placed on the top of the berm. A grassy area should be created below the berm to handle water in the event of a severe downpour beyond the capacity of the rain garden.  Rain gardens should be twice as long as wide and can be located in full or partial sun.

Basic steps to building a rain garden are: 1) site and sizing; 2) design and plant selection; 3) digging; 4) soil test and amendments; 5) planting and 6) maintenance.  The cost varies according to amount of excavation work and plant selection.  Many modest sized rain gardens can be constructed by active home gardeners.  The plants selected must be able to tolerate both wet and dry conditions.  This is a good reason to use plants native and non-invasive to New York State.

There are many benefits of a rain garden for homeowners and the community.  First, they can fit into your landscaping and replenish groundwater (a great benefit for those using drilled wells).  Second, they protect our streams and lakes by reducing flooding from heavy rainstorms and remove pollutants such as sediments, nutrients and bacteria. Third, rain gardens add beauty and enhance your neighborhood.  Fourth, they can provide a habitat for birds, butterflies and many beneficial insects.  And finally, they can provide 30% greater infiltration of water than turf grass.

Rain gardens can work virtually everywhere and they can be simple to install. Their location, size and effectiveness depend on the amount of rainwater runoff you have on your property.  Since each rain garden is different, there is no wrong way to make one.  For more information, use these internet sites: www.cayugalake.org, photos at www.danewaters.com/private/raingarden.aspx, a step by step guide at http://dnr.wi.gov/org/water/wm/nps/rg/ , a native plant list that will keep your garden blooming throughout the season at  http://cce.campaignbase.com/. or call the Yates County Master Gardeners at 536-5123.

 


Cornell Cooperative Extension Yates Association
Last updated: 073009

 

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CCE does not endorse or recommend any specific product or service.  This program is solely intended to educate consumers about their choices.