Ponds

Look in the links above for a specific topic or scan the questions below. Questions are arranged by date so you may want to jump down to the month when you are experiencing trouble. Follow the links within the answers for a complete description of the insect/disease cycle and discussion on causes and control.

Amphibians

Q. 5/29 The attached picture shows a jelly-like egg sack attached to a rope. We have also found these jelly things just attached to the rocks at the bottom of the water. Question: What are they and should we be happy to see them?

A. You should be very happy to see these egg masses. It is hard to be specific from the picture, but they are either the eggs of the wood frog or the spotted salamander.

Stocking fish
Q. 8/3 We have two ponds. Both ponds seem to have healthy fish populations with large numbers of good sized blue gill and large month bass. There are no small bass in the 6 inch range but there are a lot of small blue gills. My question is; Are the ponds reproducing Bass? If not, what can I do to change this situation? Thank you,

A. Small fish need habitat to hide. Submergent weeds or important. Artificial shelter may be added to the pond like small trees and brush. Go to Cornell's site on Fish Management in NY.

Control Cattails
Q. 8/6 We have a medium sized pond on our property which is stocked with 100 catfish. We are having a terrible time with cattails. Is there something that we could put in the pond to kill them or something that would eat them? We looked into a grass carp permit but, it stated they do not eat thick fibrous material and assumed it would not work. Any advise you have would be appreciated. Thank you

A. You are correct. Grass carp will not eat cattails. There are herbicides, one is glyphosate (trade name Rodeo) , but you will need a permit to purchase it from the department of environmental conservation - 372-0645 (Allegany, NY). To gradually reduce the spread of cattails, cut the leaves and stems off at ice level, early in the winter. Also, cut below water level during spring and summer as much as possible.

Chara - musky odor and gritty texture
Hydrilla - whorled leaves with toothed margins and spines on midrib.
Cattails - common emergent plant

Penn State Aquatic Plant list

Pond Weeds
Q. 8/11 Our pond is been infested with weeds. We first noticed it last year, but this year it has spread throughout the pond. Is there any way we can get rid of them without harming the fish?

A. Some aquatic plant life is necessary for fish. First identify the aquatic plant species present, then assess your options for management . Finally, determine control options. Some common aquatic plants are in the table at right. Reasons for over abundant growth are listed below under algae.

Algae
Q. 8/22 We have a severe problem with pond algae and would like some information on ways to eliminate it.

A. Pond algae can be due to many factors. Some causes may be;
1) Ice cover may lead to oxygen depletion and decay of plant material.
2) Rain washing in nutrients from inlets and runoff introduces excess nutrients that feed the algae. 3) Manure or septic systems located above the pond may introduce nutrients.
4) Nitrogen or phosphorous fertilizers spread in lawns or gardens can leach into the pond.
5) Wildlife such as geese and ducks make be adding nutrients to the pond as there droppings wash in. Also, grass carp which may be added to a pond to feed on submergent weeds (weeds that grow along the bottom on the pond) recycle those weeds into floating nutrients.

To manage algae you have three options;
1) Do nothing, it usually goes away when the nutrients are used up by the algae. If possible, pulling out as much algae as possible may help.
2) Try to reduce nutrients running into the pond. Be sure septic system runoff does not enter the pond. Do not cut grass to the ponds edge. Allow a filter strip of grass and shrubs along the pond border to filter out nutrients in runoff. Avoid fertilizer applications that may be carried in runoff. Secure bales of straw in the inlet to filter water that streams into the pond,
3) Kill algae. Chemicals, such as chelated copper are used to control algae but their use is regulated by the DEC. You need to call your local DEC office for an application for a permit. Always read the pesticide label before each use. Grass carp (a fish that eats some pond weeds) should not be used to control algae. If you need to control submergent weeds, be sure to identify the weed as one that grass carp will eat.

An alternative to chemicals is barley straw. Barely has been shown to produce substances that will kill or control algae. It works best if applied before algae appears. Split the bale into "leaves" 3-4" thick, wrap in plastic mesh such as bird netting, and float on the surface of the water. One bale is recommended per acre of pond. I have seen bales sold on the Internet for $30/ bale, but some farmers may have it locally much cheaper.

Using Pesticides Safely
Indiscriminate use of pesticides introduces unneeded chemicals into the environment, puts yourself at risk of contamination, possibly kills beneficial insects and could lead to pesticide resistance in pest insects. Before choosing an insecticide, ask yourself how much damage you can withstand. If the damage to the plant is only aesthetic, your first option is always to do nothing. To choose the appropriate insecticide, look for the name of the pest and the host plant on the label. Always read the label and follow the directions for application methods.

This publication may contain pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registrations, some of the suggestions given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author and Cornell Cooperative Extension assume no liability resulting form the use of these guidelines.